Why the fitting matters more than the finished suit

People ask me how long a suit takes.

The honest answer is: the suit itself doesn't take that long. The fitting is where the time goes. And the fitting is the whole point.

Most customers, especially first-timers, think the important part is the end. They're picturing the moment they pick it up, put it on, and it fits perfectly. That moment is real, and it's satisfying. But it's not where the suit gets made. The suit gets made in the room, during the fittings, when we're still making decisions.

Here's what I mean.

When a customer comes in for their basted fitting — the rough canvas stage, before we've touched the final fabric — the jacket looks half-finished. Basting stitches holding it together, raw edges, no lining. I've had people laugh when they see it. But this is the most important appointment we have.

In that session, we're looking at how the jacket sits on a real body in real time. The shoulder that sits a little higher on one side. The way the back pulls when the arms come forward. The chest that needs an extra half centimetre to breathe. These are things you cannot see on a flat pattern. They only show up when a person is standing in the jacket and moving in it.

Every adjustment we make in that room costs almost nothing. Every adjustment we make after the jacket is sewn costs much more — in time, in fabric, sometimes in starting over. So we stay in the fitting longer. We look harder. We make the decisions properly while we still can.


This is true for the customer too, by the way. The fitting is your time to say what's not working — while we can still fix it easily. Not after. Come in with your honest reaction. Tell us if something feels wrong even if you can't say why. That's useful information. We'd rather hear it in the fitting room than after the suit is finished.


There's a line I think about sometimes: the journey is the point, not the destination. In tailoring, the fittings are the journey. The finished suit is just proof that the journey happened well.

When we get the fittings right, the finished suit almost takes care of itself.

That's what we're doing in that room. That's why it takes the time it takes.

— Logan